Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978) is an American rock climber who has set records in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and in big-wall climbing. Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.[
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He made the of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the U.S., including Kryptonite at in 1999, and Flex Luthor at in 2003, both at the Fortress of Solitude in Colorado. In January 2015, Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson over 19-days made the first free ascent of The Dawn Wall on El Capitan, which was the first-ever big wall free climb at in history.
In 2015, National Geographic called Caldwell "arguably the best all-around rock climber on the planet",[
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Early life and education
Caldwell grew up in Loveland, Colorado. His father is Mike Caldwell, a former teacher,
Taken hostage in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan
Caldwell and three fellow climbers Beth Rodden, John Dickey, and Jason 'Singer' Smith were held hostage for six days by rebels in Kyrgyzstan in August 2000. Caldwell pushed one of the kidnappers off a cliff, and subsequently escaped to government soldiers.[.] The Kyrgyzstan incident is included in the 2017 film The Dawn Wall.
Loss of a finger
Caldwell accidentally sawed off much of his left index finger with a table saw in 2001. Doctors were able to reattach the severed portion, but Caldwell decided he did not want the useless finger, which doctors said would never heal fully and he would never be able to use to climb with again, and the damaged part of the finger was later permanently removed.
Achilles tendon tear
In February 2022, Caldwell fell while projecting Magic Line, a trad route in Yosemite National Park, tearing his Achilles tendon as he struck the wall, requiring a full reconstruction.
Notable climbs
He made the of some of the United States hardest sport climbing including Flex Luthor in 2003 at the Fortress of Solitude, in Colorado, which remained unrepeated for 18 years, before getting its first repeat by Matty Hong in October 2021, who suggested a possible grade 5.15b (9b), but was regraded to by Jonathan Siegrist in 2022.
In May 2004, he completed the first free ascent (FFA) of Dihedral Wall. In 2005, he and Beth Rodden—swapping leads—made the third and fourth free ascents of The Nose. Two days later, on October 16, Caldwell free-climbed The Nose in less than 12 hours. A few days later, Caldwell climbed The Nose in 11 hours, descended the East Ledges, and then climbed Freerider, topping out 12 hours later – the first ascent of two El Capitan free climbs in 24 hours. On El Capitan, Caldwell has also free-climbed: Lurking Fear, Muir Wall, West Buttress, Salathé, Zodiac, Magic Mushroom, The Dawn Wall, New Dawn, and Heart Route.
In January 2015, Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the first free climb of The Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, after six years of planning and preparation.
The following year Czech climber Adam Ondra free climbed the Dawn Wall in 8 days.[ Czech free-climber Adam Ondra scales Yosemite rock wall in record time (The Daily Telegraph)] Ondra praised Caldwell and Jorgeson saying, "Tommy and Kevin put so much effort into the climb and faced so many question marks and logistical problems that I cannot really compare my effort to theirs. I had it prepared, had all the knowledge. I knew it was possible".
Documentaries
Progression
Caldwell was one of the climbers featured in the 2009 film Progression.
The Dawn Wall
The Dawn Wall, a documentary following Caldwell and Jorgeson on their free climb of The Dawn Wall, was released on September 19, 2018. The documentary was directed by Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer.
Free Solo
Caldwell appeared in the documentary Free Solo, released on September 28, 2018, about Alex Honnold's free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. In the documentary, Caldwell is seen working with Honnold to prepare for the climb and is interviewed about Honnold and rock climbing.
A Line Across the Sky
The Red Bull TV Reel Rock episode A Line Across The Sky, released in 2018, followed Caldwell and Honnold's attempt to traverse the Fitz Roy peaks in Patagonia, comprising seven peaks and 4,000 feet of vertical climbing.
The Devil's Climb
The Devil's Climb Plimsoll Productions was released October 17, 2024. Climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell embark on an expedition to conquer Alaska's treacherous Devils Thumb. The documentary was directed by Renan Öztürk and Drew Pulley.
Notable ascents
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2001: The Honeymoon is Over V 5.13 Longs Peak, Colorado. FA with Beth Rodden belaying.
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2003: Flex Luthor (9a+ 5.15a), Fortress of Solitude, Colorado
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2003: West Buttress (FFA) VI 5.13c, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California
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2004: Dihedral Wall (FFA) VI 5.14a, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California
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2005: The Nose VI 5.14a/b, 3rd/4th Free Ascent (with Beth Rodden), El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California
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2006: Linea di Eleganza VI 5.11b A3 90 degrees M7 Fitz Roy, Argentine Patagonia. FFA with Topher Donahue and Erik Roed.
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2008: Magic Mushroom (FFA) VI 5.14a with Justen Sjong, May 12–17, 2008, El Capitan, Yosemite, California
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2012: Yosemite Triple Crown 5.13a, 1st All Free Ascent with Alex Honnold
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2013: Dunn-Westbay 5.14a, 1st Free Ascent with Joe Mills, Longs Peak, Colorado
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2014: Fitz Traverse VI 5.11d C1 65 degrees, First Ascent with Alex Honnold
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2015: The Dawn Wall (FFA) 5.14d with Kevin Jorgeson, December 27, 2014 – January 14, 2015, El Capitan, Yosemite, California
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2018: The Nose 5.9 C2, Sub- 2-hour record with Alex Honnold, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California
Personal life
Caldwell and Beth Rodden married in 2003, and subsequently divorced in 2010.
Publications
See also
Footnotes
External links
